So what is an heirloom variety anyway?--Posted March 30th, 2010
Well, let’s go back one step. There are two different kinds of cultivated plants: hybrids and open pollinated.
A hybrid is usually a cross between two species of the same genus. Hybrid tomatoes have been developed by cross-pollinating two “parent plants” to come up with a better plant. Perhaps one parent plant will have a better resistance to disease. Perhaps it may be a better producer. Maybe it can withstand heat or cold well. By cross pollinating two species together, you hopefully get a plant with good qualities from both parents.
However, if you plant the seeds from a hybrid, they will either be sterile or the offspring will begin to revert back to characteristics of either of the parents. If you buy a hybrid tomato plant and save the seeds, you will likely have plants that look different from what you had planted the previous year. For example, cherry tomatoes are sometimes used to breed with other varieties to get hybrids. So it is possible you will get a smaller tomato the following year.
Then there are open pollinated varieties. These are plants that have not been hybridized. They are true to form from the original parent, like a purebred dog. The seeds can be saved and when planted will show the same characteristics as the parent plant.
So what is an heirloom? Well, it is nothing more than an open pollinated variety that has been handed down from generation to generation for anywhere from 50-100 years or more. There is as yet no technical standard for determining an heirloom. Sometimes, they may have been around years ago and are simply reintroduced. Some may be from other countries. Many are different in shape, style and color than hybrids.
What is the difference to the gardener?
The benefit of hybrids generally is that they will out perform open pollinated varieties because they have been bred for production and disease resistance. Heirlooms generally produce less but have better (and stronger) flavor, along with other great benefits.
So this year, if you want to try something old, try Brandywine [large, pinkish and very tasty], Cherokee Purple [dark pink to red fruit with dark interior], Cherokee Green, Black Prince [almost a mahogany color], Yellow Brandywine, Striped German [bicolor], Great White [actually yellow] or Valencia [bright orange].
Heirlooms are gaining in popularity more each year. Just like disco, tie die and the 80s …what was old is new again….(ok, maybe not the 80s…yet)
Plant peas in March, they are good for the soil.---Posted early March, 2010
Many people think the only thing to do in the garden this time of year is clean. The weather begins to get a little warmer. Nice Spring days fill the air. Daylight savings gives an extra hour of light. But cleaning is not fun. And although it is a needed part of any garden, it is not always the most enjoyable part of gardening. So what else can you do?
Plant peas; they are good for the garden.
Pease are part of a category of plants called legumes. Most plants pull nutrients from the soil. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the three primary elements plants need. In most cases, plants need more of these three nutrients than the soil has available. So we often find ourselves adding more in the forms of fertilizers or manures.
Nitrogen is key for plant growth. It is responsible for foliage development, while phosphorus aids in root and fruit production and potassium strengthens the stems and immune system.
Pease and other legumes however act differently. Instead of pulling nitrogen from the soil, they take nitrogen from the air through their leaves. They convert it from the air into usable nitrogen into the soil. Then, it is stored in tiny nodules on the roots. As the plant develops, more nitrogen is stored by the plant.
Pease enjoy cool weather. They are generally frost tolerant. Once the warmer weather comes, they will decrease in production. This makes for a perfect early crop. Plant peas now for a harvest in early summer. Then, once the harvest is over, you can till an entire section under and release the nitrogen that has been stored in the roots. Just don’t pull the entire plant up once it dies back in June. You want the roots to stay in the ground.
In smaller spaces, you may even be able to plant summer crops such as tomatoes and corn next to sprouting peas. Once the peas are done, carefully cut them at ground level back and gently break up the soil where they were to release the nitrogen. You can do this with a small hand trowel. Just be cartful not to dig up your summer crop. You should be about one foot away.
Don’t forget, there are three kinds of peas to choose from. Regular peas you shell to eat, snap peas, which have a larger edible shell, and snow peas, which stay small but have a flat edible shell and are great in stir fries.
Soak pea seeds for 12 hours before planting them outside inches.
Ideally, plant peas on a fence so they can climb
Sprinkle seeds about one half - one inch apart and cover with about one inch of soil
Watch for birds trying to dig up the seeds the first week
Gently thin seedlings to about 2-3 seedlings every 4-6 inches once they are up two
Pease are a great early addition to your garden. They will most likely not need more water than the Spring rains bring. They add needed nitrogen to the soil. And fresh peas are absolutely delicious right out of the garden.
Links to notes from Saturday Feb 6th gardening class
